City Guide
Nice, France
Nice (Nizza) sits on the French Riviera where the Alps meet the Mediterranean — a city of pale yellow and terracotta buildings, a gorgeous crescent bay, promenades lined with palms, Italian-influenced cuisine, and a gritty authenticity beneath the glamour. France's fifth-largest city has been attracting artists, writers, and holidaymakers since the 19th century. The old town (Vieux Nice) is one of the most charming in France.
Best Places to Stay
- Luxury: Hôtel Negresco (legendary Belle Époque palace on the Promenade des Anglais), The Maybourne Riviera, Hyatt Regency
- Mid-range: Hôtel La Pérouse, Hôtel Villa Rivoli, Best Western
- Budget: Villa Saint-Exupéry Beach hostel, Welcome Hostel, Hôtel Acanthe
Best Places to Eat
- Fine dining: Keisuke Matsushima, L'Acqua, Avec Réso
- Nice cuisine: Café de Turin (oysters and seafood), La Route du Bonheur (classic), Oliviers (in old town)
- Café culture: Café de la Place, Fenocchio (famous for ice cream — try lavender or pistachio)
- Markets: Cours Saleya in the old town — daily except Monday, flower and food market, wonderful for lunch
Best Sites to Visit
Promenade des Anglais: The iconic seafront walkway — 7km long, palms, benches, the Mediterranean.
Vieux Nice (Old Town): Narrow lanes, pastel buildings, Café de Turin square, baroque churches, Place Rossetti.
Castle Hill (Colline du Château): Park above the old town with panoramic views over the bay, a waterfall, and city. Free.
Place Masséna: The grand central square — red ochre buildings, the iconic Ferris wheel, photogenic.
Matisse Museum: In a beautiful 17th-century villa, covering Henri Matisse's Nice period.
Marc Chagall National Museum: Biblical message in art — the collection is beautiful and peaceful.
MAMAC (Museum of Modern Art): Connected to the Matisse/Nice art lineage. Free to visit the ground floor.
Cimiez Monastery: Olive trees, Roman ruins, the Matisse museum in a lovely garden setting.
Sample 3-Day Itinerary
Day 1: Waterfront and Old Town
Morning: Promenade des Anglais walk, Place Masséna. Late morning: Old Town wandering — Place Rossetti, baroque church, Cours Saleya market lunch. Afternoon: Castle Hill — waterfall, panoramic views. Evening: Place Saint-François for aperitif.
Day 2: Museums and Port
Morning: Matisse Museum OR MAMAC. Afternoon: Walk east along the Promenade to the Port of Nice, then to the Cap d'Antibes viewpoint. Evening: Rue Bonaparte area — trendy, bars and restaurants.
Day 3: Day Trip
Option A: Èze (the cliffside village 12km east — Jardin Exotique with extraordinary views). Option B: Monaco (30 min by train — casino, Prince's Palace). Option C: Cannes (40 min by train — film festival city, La Croisette).
Getting There and Around
- By air: Nice Côte d'Azur Airport (NCE) — major Riviera hub, direct from many cities. Bus 98/99 to city centre (30 min).
- By train: Nice-Ville station — TGV from Paris (5.5h), direct connections to Cannes, Monaco, Genoa, Milan, Marseille.
- By ferry: Nice port has ferry connections to Corsica (Bastia in 6-8h).
- Getting around: Tram runs along the Promenade and through the city. Everything in the centre is walkable.
Travel Tips and Practical Info
- Best time: April–June or September–October — lovely weather, fewer crowds, lower prices.
- July–August: Busy and expensive.
- Beach: All French beaches are public — but they are all pebble/stone, not sand.
- Free: Promenade des Anglais, Castle Hill park, Old Town wandering.
Where to Next?
- Monaco (30 min by train — F1 circuit, casino, Prince's Palace)
- Cannes (40 min by train — film festival city, La Croisette)
- Antibes (20 min — Picasso museum, Provençal old town, marina)
- Èze (15 min by bus — the cliff village, Jardin Exotique)
- Saint-Tropez (2h by bus or boat — famous jet-set port)
- Marseille (2.5h by train — France's oldest city)