Places to Visit in Europe
Lyon, France - Fourvière basilica and old town rooftops

Lyon, France

Lyon sits at the confluence of the Rhône and Saône rivers in the heart of France — France's third-largest city, its gastronomic capital, and a UNESCO World Heritage site at its medieval and Renaissance core. It is often cited as the country's most liveable city: dense enough to feel like a real urban centre, small enough to walk across in a couple of hours, and old enough that the layers of history are visible at every turn. From the Roman amphitheatres on Fourvière hill to the silk-weavers' workshops on Croix-Rousse, from the bouchons of Vieux Lyon to the glass-and-steel Musée des Confluences at the river junction, Lyon rewards a slow look in a way most big French cities do not.

The city's history runs deep. Founded by the Romans as Lugdunum in 43 BC, Lyon was the capital of the Three Gauls and at one point the largest city in the Western Roman Empire outside Italy. Christianity reached Gaul here in the 2nd century — the Bishop of Lyon is still, by tradition, called the Primate of the Gauls. The medieval city grew up around the cathedral on Fourvière and the Saône-side Vieux Lyon, and in the 15th and 16th centuries the silk trade transformed Lyon into the banking and commercial capital of France, with the Italian bankers and merchants who financed the trade leaving behind a stunning concentration of Renaissance townhouses — Vieux Lyon is now the largest ensemble of Renaissance architecture in France. The 19th century brought silk (and the canuts, the silk weavers of Croix-Rousse) and then the chemical and pharmaceutical industries, which still drive the regional economy. The Lumière brothers — Auguste and Louis, born in Besançon but raised in Lyon — held the first paid public film screening in the world at the Grand Café on Rue de la République in 1895, and Lyon calls itself the birthplace of cinema.

For travellers, Lyon offers something rare: a major French city that is genuinely walkable, with a strong identity and an exceptional food scene. You can see the major sights in two days, spend a third day in the neighbourhoods beyond the centre (Croix-Rousse, Confluence, the Presqu'île), and use the city as a base for day trips to the Beaujolais and Burgundy wine regions, the Alps, and the smaller cities of the Rhône Valley. This guide covers the essential sights, the best places to stay in each neighbourhood, where to eat (including how to spot a real bouchon), a three-day itinerary, the events worth planning around, and the practical details for visiting in 2026.

Best Places to Stay

Lyon's accommodation clusters in and around the historic centre. Vieux Lyon and the Presqu'île are the most central and the most expensive. Croix-Rousse (the "other hill" — the slope that rises north from the Presqu'île) is a quieter, more local option. Part-Dieu, just east of the centre, is the business district and has most of the chain hotels. Where you stay will shape your Lyon: staying in Vieux Lyon means steep cobblestone streets and tourist energy; staying in the Presqu'île puts you within walking distance of most restaurants and shops; staying in Croix-Rousse means a more authentic neighbourhood and the famous open-air market.

Vieux Lyon (Old Town): The UNESCO Renaissance quarter on the Saône's west bank, packed with ochre and gold townhouses, traboules, and cobblestone streets. Villa Florentine (25 montée Saint-Barthélémy) is the most beautiful hotel in the city — a converted 17th-century convent on the Fourvière slope, with terracotta-tiled rooms, a private garden, a heated outdoor pool, and panoramic views over the rooftops of Vieux Lyon and the river. Cour des Loges (2-8 rue du Boeuf) is a Relais & Châteaux property set in a 14th-century logis on the quietest street in Vieux Lyon, with a glass-roofed courtyard, a small spa, and one of the best breakfasts in the city. Hôtel Le Royal Lyon - Maison Rouge (20 place Bellecour) is a 19th-century grand hotel on the Presqu'île's main square, the kind of place Marcel Proust stayed in. Hotel Collégiale (4 rue Professeur Pierre Marion) is a small four-star a few minutes from the cathedral, with a quiet courtyard and good-value rooms.

Presqu'île: The peninsula between the Saône and the Rhône, the 19th-century heart of the city, packed with shops, restaurants, theatres, and the main squares (Place Bellecour, Place des Terreaux). Hôtel de l'Abbaye (19 rue de l'Abbaye d'Ainay) is a small boutique hotel in a quiet 18th-century building in the Ainay neighbourhood, with a great breakfast. Hôtel Carlton Lyon - MGallery (4 rue Jussieu) is an elegant three-star in a 19th-century building near Place des Terreaux, with high ceilings and a Belle Époque feel. Hôtel des Artistes (8 rue Gaspard André) is a well-priced three-star in a great location near the Opera.

Croix-Rousse: The "hill that works" — the northern slope of Lyon, where the silk weavers (canuts) lived in the 19th century, and now a trendy residential neighbourhood with markets, vintage shops, and a quieter atmosphere. Le Phénix Hôtel (7 rue de l'Abbé Rozier) is a small design hotel in a converted silk workshop, with high ceilings, exposed beams, and views over the Presqu'île. Hôtel de la Croix-Rousse (8 rue de la Terrasse) is a reliable mid-range option with a quiet location near the Gros Caillou viewpoint. Cour des Voraces is a small guesthouse set in a historic building (no relation to the traboule of the same name) in the heart of Croix-Rousse.

Part-Dieu and Confluence: The business and modern districts. Radisson Blu Hotel Lyon (129 rue Servient) is the standard upscale chain option in Part-Dieu, with a rooftop bar and views over the city. Marriott Lyon Cité Internationale (70 quai Charles de Gaulle) is a 4-star on the riverside near the Parc de la Tête d'Or, with a large conference centre attached. Hôtel Silky by HappyCulture (14 rue de la Charité) is a good mid-range option in a quiet location between Part-Dieu and the Presqu'île. Hôtel de la Confluence (26 rue de la Confluence) is a small new hotel in the up-and-coming Confluence district, well-priced and close to the Musée des Confluences.

Budget: Lyon is one of the more affordable major French cities, and the budget options are solid. Ho36 Hostel (36 rue Montesquieu) is a small, well-run social hostel in a converted 19th-century building near Part-Dieu. Slo Living Hostel (5 rue Bonnefoi) is a newer boutique hostel in a quiet street in the 7th arrondissement. Away Hostel & Coffee Shop (13 rue d'Austerlitz) is a stylish hostel with both dorms and private rooms in Vieux Lyon. Hôtel du Simplon (11 rue Duhamel) is a reliable two-star near Part-Dieu with good value. Le Flavier (1 rue des Capucins) is a tiny two-star in a quiet location near the Croix-Rousse market.

Best Places to Eat

Lyon is the gastronomic capital of France — a city with more Michelin stars per capita than Paris, with the bouchon tradition unique to itself, and with a food market (Les Halles de Lyon) that any serious food traveller should plan a morning around. The classic Lyonnaise cuisine is hearty, offal-heavy, and built around pork, freshwater fish, and the rich cheeses of the surrounding regions. The modern Lyonnaise food scene is more sophisticated — Paul Bocuse put the city on the international fine-dining map in the 1960s and 1970s, and a new generation of chefs is keeping the tradition alive.

Bouchons: The bouchon is a uniquely Lyonnais institution — a small, noisy, family-run bistro serving traditional Lyonnaise cuisine (quenelles, andouillette, tablier de sapeur, salade lyonnaise, praline rose) and a robust local red wine (typically a Beaujolais or a Côtes du Rhône). The word "bouchon" comes from the bunch of straw ("la botte") that the canuts used to hang outside their workshops as a sign they were open, and which the first inns adopted as a sign too. Le Bouchon des Cordeliers (15 rue des Archers) is a classic bouchon in the centre, with the full Lyonnaise menu and a warm atmosphere. Café du Soleil (2 rue des Archers) is one of the oldest bouchons in Lyon (since 1890), with the standard fare and good Beaujolais. Bouchon des Farges (7 rue des Farges) is a small family-run bouchon in Vieux Lyon, recommended for the saucisson brioché. Le Musée (2 rue des Forces) is a bouchon in the Croix-Rousse, with good value and authentic atmosphere. L'Estaminet (8 rue de l'Arbre Sec) is a small bistro in Vieux Lyon with a daily-changing menu and a great cheese board. Daniel et Denise (multiple locations, including 156 rue de Créqui and 19 rue de l'Abbaye d'Ainay) is a more modern bouchon chain, with strict quality control and consistently good food.

Fine Dining: Lyon's fine-dining scene is deep, with more than 30 Michelin-starred restaurants in the metropolitan area. Paul Bocuse (L'Auberge du Pont de Collonges, 40 rue de la Plage, Collonges-au-Mont-d'Or, 10 km north of the centre) is the institution — the three-Michelin-star flagship of the most famous French chef of the 20th century, still operating from the same kitchen and dining room Bocuse ran for decades. The menu is unapologetically classic (soupe aux truffes VGE, volaille de Bresse en vessie, gratin de queues d'écrevisses). Restaurant Têtedoie (4 rue Professeur Pierre Marion, Fourvière) is a Michelin-starred restaurant from chef Christian Têtedoie, in a striking modern building on the Fourvière hilltop, with panoramic views over the city and a contemporary Lyonnaise menu. L'Alexandrin (83 rue Moncey) is a one-Michelin-star neo-bistro from chef Jérôme Brochot, with a short seasonal menu. Le Neuvième Art (173 rue Cuvier) is a two-Michelin-star restaurant from chef Christophe Roure, with a tasting menu built around the Rhône-Alpes terroir. L'Ortolan (6 rue de la Loge) is a small restaurant in Vieux Lyon with a Michelin star and a tasting menu that reinterprets traditional Lyonnaise cuisine.

Les Halles de Lyon - Paul Bocuse: The city's covered food market (102 cours Lafayette, 3rd arrondissement), a 30-stand hall named after the most famous Lyonnaise chef, is the heart of the city's food scene and a destination in its own right. Open Tuesday to Sunday from early morning to early evening, the hall houses cheese mongers, charcutiers, butchers, fishmongers, bakers, chocolatiers, and wine merchants, with a few small restaurant counters for a sit-down lunch. Fromagerie Mons is the best cheese stall (try the Saint-Marcellin, the Picodon, or the Bleu de Termignon). Sibilia is the best charcutier (rosette de Lyon, jésus, saucisson brioché to take away). Bouillet is the best chocolatier. The market is also where the city's top chefs buy their ingredients, and you can spot them shopping in the morning.

Other Food Markets: Beyond Les Halles, Lyon has a number of excellent outdoor markets. Marché de la Croix-Rousse (Boulevard de la Croix-Rousse) is the famous open-air market on the hill, held Tuesday to Sunday morning, with produce, flowers, cheese, and a great atmosphere. Marché Saint-Antoine (Quai Saint-Antoine, on the Saône) is the riverside market held Thursday to Sunday, with more than 100 stalls and a beautiful setting. Marché de Quai Victor Augagneur is a smaller market on the Rhône. Marché de Monplaisir (Place Ambroise Courtois) is the best Sunday market south of the centre.

Wine Bars: Lyon's wine-bar scene has grown enormously in the last decade, with dozens of small bars serving natural wine, Beaujolais, and Côtes du Rhône. La Cave d'à Côté (3 rue des Archers) is a small natural-wine bar in the 2nd, with rotating selections. Le Bar à Vin (1 rue de la Fromagerie) is a relaxed bar in Vieux Lyon. Comptoir Thomas (14 rue Tupin) is a Beaujolais specialist in the 2nd. Le Wine Bar d'à Côté (7 rue Grolée) is a small bar with a great selection of Côtes du Rhône.

Boulangeries and Pâtisseries: Lyon has a strong baker and pastry tradition. Boulangerie du Palais (8 rue du Garet) is a small artisanal bakery in the 1st with some of the best bread in the city. Pignol (17 rue Émile Zola) is an institution for pralines roses (pink sugared almonds, the Lyonnais sweet) and Saint-Genix brioche. Sève (5 rue Chavanne) is a Michelin-starred pastry shop from chef Sébastien Vautrin. Maison Pignol (multiple locations) is a 1903 institution for traditional Lyonnais pastries.

Cafés and Brunch: The classic Lyonnais café is one of the city's understated pleasures. Café Sillon (46 avenue Jean-Jaurès) is a small café near Place Jean Macé, with great coffee and pastries. Le Café du Petit Musée (7 rue des Forces) is a tiny café in Vieux Lyon, a regular with locals. Boulangerie Lolie & Co (2 rue des Archers) is a brunch spot in the 2nd with a seasonal menu. The Smoking Dog (16 rue Lainerie) is a small Anglo-Saxon-style brunch place in Vieux Lyon. Pique-Nique (7 rue Romarin) is a brunch café in the 1st with a great terrace.

Best Sites to Visit

Lyon has an exceptionally dense set of sights for a city of its size. Most of the major sites are in Vieux Lyon, on the Fourvière and Croix-Rousse hills, and in the Presqu'île — within walking distance of each other.

Vieux Lyon (Old Town): The UNESCO-listed Renaissance quarter on the Saône's west bank, with the largest ensemble of Renaissance townhouses in France. The neighbourhood is organised around three parallel streets (Rue Saint-Jean, Rue du Boeuf, Rue des Trois Maries) and a maze of traboules — covered passageways through buildings, originally built to allow the silk workers to carry their bolts of fabric out of the rain. Look for the small metal plaques on building walls marking the traboules. The most famous are the Traboule de la Tour Rose (16 rue du Boeuf, with a pink tower and a beautiful spiral staircase), the Traboule du Gouvernement (8 rue du Garet, with a courtyard and a fountain), and the Cour des Voraces (9 rue Imbert Colomès, on Croix-Rousse — a five-storey staircase courtyard that was one of the most photogenic sites of the 19th-century canuts' revolt). The Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste de Lyon (Place Saint-Jean) is the Gothic cathedral at the heart of the old town, begun in the 12th century and finished in the 15th, with a beautiful astronomical clock from 1379 and the small Musée Archéologique in the adjoining palace. The Palais de Justice (Cour d'Appel, Rue des Tuileries) is a historic courthouse in a 19th-century building.

Basilique Notre-Dame de Fourvière: The 19th-century hilltop basilica that dominates the Lyon's skyline, a striking white marble and gold mosaic building on the Fourvière hill. Built between 1872 and 1896 in a Romano-Byzantine style, the interior is one of the most ornate in France — every surface is covered in marble, gold leaf, mosaics, and paintings. The view from the terrace in front of the basilica is the iconic Lyon panorama, especially at sunset. Free entry; the basilica is open daily. The basilica is part of a complex that also includes the Tour Métallique (a small metal observation tower from 1900) and the Rosary Garden below. Access is via the funicular from Vieux Lyon (Funiculaire F2, included in the TCL transport pass) or by walking up the hill via the small park.

Théâtres Gallo-Romains de Fourvière (Roman Theatres): The remains of the Roman amphitheatre and odeon at the top of Fourvière hill, the oldest and most important Roman site in France outside Nîmes and Arles. The Grand Théâtre (the large amphitheatre, built in 15 BC and seating 10,000) is still used for the Nuits de Fourvière festival every summer. The smaller Odéon next to it was the speaking theatre. The Musée Gallo-Romain de Fourvière (17 rue Cléberg) houses the finds from the site — mosaics, sculptures, coins, and a model of Roman Lugdunum. Combined ticket around €8. The site is a 10-minute walk from the basilica, on the same hill.

Presqu'île: The peninsula between the two rivers, the 19th-century heart of the city. The main axis is the Rue de la République, the long straight shopping street that runs from Place Bellecour to Place des Terreaux, with a great 19th-century commercial architecture. Place Bellecour is the main square — a large open square with a statue of Louis XIV, the centre of the city's events calendar. Place des Terreaux is the more historic main square, with the Hôtel de Ville (the 17th-century city hall, with a façade by Jules Hardouin-Mansart) and the famous Fontaine des Jacobins (moved here from its original location). The square also hosts the annual Fête des Lumières in December. The Musée des Beaux-Arts de Lyon (20 place des Terreaux) is housed in the former 17th-century Benedictine abbey of Saint-Pierre and is one of the best fine-arts museums in France, with a major collection of paintings, sculptures, and decorative arts.

Musée des Confluences: The striking modern museum at the confluence of the Rhône and the Saône, designed by Austrian firm Coop Himmelb(l)au and opened in 2014. The building is a striking deconstructivist design — a glass and steel "crystal" floating on a plinth of concrete, with a "neck" connecting the two levels. The permanent collection covers the natural sciences, anthropology, and the history of human knowledge, with a focus on the Rhône Valley and its civilisations. The temporary exhibitions are usually excellent. Allow at least two hours. Combined ticket with the Gallo-Roman Museum around €11.

Institut Lumière: The museum and cinema in the former Lumière brothers' factory in the Monplaisir neighbourhood (8th arrondissement), a 10-minute metro ride from the centre. The museum tells the story of the invention of cinema — the first Lumière film (Sortie de l'Usine Lumière à Lyon, 1895) was shot in the courtyard here — with a collection of cameras, posters, and ephemera. There's also a cinema that shows the Lumière films daily. The Monplaisir neighbourhood around the museum is a lively residential area with good restaurants.

Parc de la Tête d'Or: The large public park in the 6th arrondissement, north of the Presqu'île, designed in the 19th century in the English landscape style. The park has a lake (with rowing boats), a rose garden, a botanical garden (the Jardin Botanique de Lyon), a small zoo, and the Parc aux Oiseaux (a free-flight aviary). The park is the green lung of the city and a great place to spend an afternoon. Free entry.

Traboules: Lyon's famous covered passageways — the traboules — are an integral part of the city's history and a specific tourist attraction. The word comes from the Latin "trans ambulare" (to walk through), and the traboules were originally built so the silk workers could carry their bolts of fabric through the buildings from one street to another without getting them wet in the rain. Today, more than 40 traboules in Vieux Lyon and Croix-Rousse are open to the public, marked with small bronze plaques. The most famous are in Vieux Lyon (the Traboule de la Tour Rose, the Traboule du Palais de Justice, the Traboule de la Longue Traboule) and on Croix-Rousse (the Cour des Voraces, the Traboule des Pentes). The Office de Tourisme sells a small map of the traboules for €1.

Croix-Rousse: The "hill that works" — the northern slope of Lyon, where the silk weavers (canuts) lived and worked in the 19th century. The neighbourhood is now a trendy residential area with vintage shops, artists' studios, and the famous Marché de la Croix-Rousse. The main sights are the Place des Terreaux (already on the Presqu'île, but the boulevard leads up to Croix-Rousse), the Théâtre de la Croix-Rousse (a 19th-century theatre), the Amphithéâtre des Trois Gaules (the remains of a Roman amphitheatre, smaller than the Fourvière site, but free to visit), and the Mur des Canuts (the famous trompe-l'oeil fresco of the canuts, painted in 1987, on the side of a building at 49 boulevard des Canuts). The Gros Caillou (the "big stone" — a 200-ton granite boulder that came down from the Alps during the last ice age) is a notable landmark in the park of the same name, with views over the city.

Sample 3-Day Itinerary

Day 1: Fourvière and Vieux Lyon. Start with the funicular up to the Fourvière hilltop (Funiculaire F2 from Vieux Lyon, included in the TCL pass). Visit the Basilique Notre-Dame de Fourvière first (allow 45 minutes for the interior, more for the view from the terrace), then walk down to the Théâtres Gallo-Romains and the Musée Gallo-Romain (allow 1.5 hours for the museum). Walk back down to Vieux Lyon via the Jardin des Rosaires for lunch in Vieux Lyon at Le Bouchon des Cordeliers or Café du Soleil. Spend the afternoon walking the traboules (start at the Traboule de la Tour Rose, then work your way through the other marked passageways) and visiting the Cathédrale Saint-Jean. In the late afternoon, climb the Tour Métallique for another panoramic view, or simply sit on the basilica terrace. Dinner at Daniel et Denise in Vieux Lyon, or at one of the bouchons on Rue des Archers.

Day 2: Markets, Presqu'île, and the Beaux-Arts Museum. Morning at Les Halles de Lyon - Paul Bocuse (102 cours Lafayette) for the city's best food market — arrive at 8am for the best selection, and have a small lunch at one of the counters (try the oysters at Merle and the cheese at Fromagerie Mons). Spend the rest of the morning walking the Presqu'île — start at Place des Terreaux for the Hôtel de Ville and the fountain, walk up the Rue de la République to Place Bellecour, then walk the quays of the Saône for the views back to Vieux Lyon. Lunch at Bouchon des Farges or at one of the cafés on Place Bellecour. Afternoon at the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Lyon (20 place des Terreaux) — the collection is large enough to spend several hours, but the highlights are the 17th-century French room, the Impressionist room (Monet, Renoir, Sisley), and the 19th-century French room. Evening at Le Wine Bar d'à Côté for natural wine, then dinner at one of the modern Lyonnais bistros on the Rue Mercière or in Vieux Lyon.

Day 3: Croix-Rousse and Confluence. Morning walk up to Croix-Rousse via the Montée de la Grande-Côte (a long staircase from the Presqu'île) or the metro to Croix-Rousse station. Visit the Mur des Canuts (49 boulevard des Canuts), then wander the neighbourhood — the Place du Change, the Cour des Voraces (9 rue Imbert Colomès, a five-storey staircase courtyard that was one of the key sites of the 1831 and 1834 canuts' revolts), the Amphithéâtre des Trois Gaules (free, 1st-century Roman amphitheatre), and the Gros Caillou viewpoint. If it's Tuesday to Sunday morning, the Marché de la Croix-Rousse on Boulevard de la Croix-Rousse is a great place to stop for a snack. Lunch at Le Musée (2 rue des Forces) or at Boulangerie Lolie & Co for brunch. Afternoon at the Musée des Confluences — allow 2 hours, take in the architecture, the natural history galleries, and the temporary exhibition. Walk back up the Rhône to the Parc de la Tête d'Or if you have energy (the park is one of the largest urban parks in France, with a lake, a botanical garden, and a free zoo). Evening in the Confluence district (a 10-minute walk from the museum) for dinner — the area is up-and-coming with new restaurants.

Note: Buy a Lyon City Card (€27 for 1 day, €45 for 2 days, €58 for 3 days) for free entry to most of the museums (including the Musée des Confluences and the Gallo-Roman Museum) and unlimited use of the metro, trams, buses, and funiculars. The TCL public transport is excellent — most sights are reachable by metro or tram. The Lyon Part-Dieu train station is a major hub with TGVs from Paris (2 hours), Marseille (3 hours), Geneva (2 hours), and Barcelona (5 hours). Wear comfortable shoes — Vieux Lyon and the hills are steep and cobblestoned.

Upcoming Events 2026

Frequently Asked Questions

How many days do I need for Lyon? 2 full days is enough to cover the main sights (Vieux Lyon, Fourvière, Presqu'île, Les Halles). 3 days lets you add Croix-Rousse and the Musée des Confluences. A week allows for day trips to Beaujolais, Burgundy, and the Alps.

What is the best area to stay? For first-time visitors, the Presqu'île is the most central, with the best restaurants within walking distance. Vieux Lyon is the most atmospheric but steep and cobblestoned. Croix-Rousse is a quieter, more local option with great food and the famous open-air market. Part-Dieu is the business district with most of the chain hotels.

Is Lyon expensive? Lyon is more affordable than Paris but more expensive than most other French regional cities. Hotel prices are higher in Vieux Lyon and the Presqu'île, reasonable in Part-Dieu. The bouchon experience is a real value (around 25-40 EUR for a full traditional meal with wine). Plan on around 70 to 120 EUR per day for a mid-range traveller.

What is a bouchon, and how do I find an authentic one? A bouchon is a small, family-run Lyonnais bistro serving traditional cuisine (quenelles, andouillette, tablier de sapeur, salade lyonnaise, praline rose). The word comes from the bunches of straw the silk weavers hung outside their workshops. Only about 20 restaurants are officially certified by the Association des Bouchons Lyonnais - look for the small red plaque on the door. The best-known authentic bouchons are in Vieux Lyon and on Rue des Archers.

Is Lyon safe at night? The central neighbourhoods (Vieux Lyon, Presqu'île, Croix-Rousse) are safe at night. The main train station area (Part-Dieu) and some parts of the 7th and 8th arrondissements are less comfortable after dark. The same common-sense precautions as any major French city apply - watch for pickpockets on the metro and around the main tourist sites.

Do I need a visa for France? EU, EEA, and Swiss citizens can enter without a visa. UK citizens can enter freely. Visitors from the US, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, and most other countries can enter for up to 90 days without a visa under the Schengen rules. France uses the Schengen visa system - check the French Ministry of Foreign Affairs website for the latest entry requirements.

Travel Tips

When to Visit: The best months are May, June, September, and early October, when the weather is warm, the city is in full swing, and the crowds are smaller than in July and August. December is magical for the Fête des Lumières. The Nuits de Fourvière festival (June to July) is the most pleasant time for warm evening entertainment. July and August can be hot (30+°C) and crowded. January and February are quiet, with shorter days and cooler temperatures, but the bouchons and wine bars are open as normal.

Currency: The Euro (€). Most places accept cards, but small bouchons and market stalls sometimes prefer cash. ATMs are widely available (avoid the Euronet ATMs in tourist areas, which charge high fees). Tipping is the same as the rest of France — service is included by law, but rounding up the bill or leaving 5-10% for good service is appreciated.

Language: French. English is widely spoken in the central neighbourhoods and the bouchons, less so in the residential areas and the older canuts. A few French phrases go a long way — bonjour (hello), merci (thank you), s'il vous plaît (please), au revoir (goodbye). The Lyonnais have a strong regional accent; in the older bouchons you may hear the local "gaga" dialect, but you won't be expected to speak it.

Free Things: Walking the traboules, climbing the Fourvière hill for the view, walking the Presqu'île, the Parc de la Tête d'Or, the Mur des Canuts, the Gros Caillou viewpoint, the Amphithéâtre des Trois Gaules, and the Christmas markets are all free. Most of the bouchons are reasonably priced, and a glass of Beaujolais in a wine bar is usually cheaper than a coffee in a Paris café.

Tipping and the Bouchon Tradition: Tipping 5-10% in restaurants. In bouchons, the service is informal — the waiters are usually the owner or a member of the family, and the bill is presented on a paper tablecloth. The bouchon tradition is unique to Lyon — the city has an official Association des Bouchons Lyonnais that certifies authentic bouchons; look for the small red plaque on the door.

Day Trips: Beaujolais wine region (45 minutes to an hour north) is the most popular day trip from Lyon — a region of rolling hills, picturesque villages, and the famous Beaujolais wine. Visit the Crus of Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie, Morgon, or Brouilly. Burgundy / Côte d'Or (2 hours by train) is the great wine region north of Lyon, with Beaune as the capital. Grenoble (1.5 hours by train) is a striking Alpine city, with the Bastille cable car and the surrounding mountains. Geneva (2 hours by train). Chamonix and Mont Blanc (3 hours by car or bus). Saint-Étienne (1 hour by train) is a smaller city with a strong design and contemporary-art scene. Pérouges (45 minutes by car) is a beautifully preserved medieval walled village, a great half-day trip.

How to Spot a Real Bouchon: There are only about 20 officially-recognised bouchons in Lyon (look for the red plaque of the Association des Bouchons Lyonnais). Avoid the places with the "bouchon" in the name but a big sign in five languages and a tourist menu — these are the bad copies. The real bouchons are small (under 30 covers), family-run, with the paper tablecloths, the carafe of Beaujolais, and the daily-changing menu.

Nearby destinations

Paris France · 2h by train Geneva Switzerland · 2h by train Nice France · 5h by train Barcelona Spain · 5h by train Zurich Switzerland · 4.5h by train