City Guide
Zurich, Switzerland
Zurich sits at the north end of Lake Zürich where the Limmat River flows out into the lake, backed by forested hills, with a beautifully preserved medieval old town of narrow lanes and guild houses. It is simultaneously a global financial hub and a city with genuine soul — coffee house culture, cutting-edge contemporary art, lakeside swimming, and some of the best nightlife in Switzerland. Consistently ranked among the world's most liveable.
Best Places to Stay
- Luxury: The Dolder Grand (iconic, spa, views over the city), Baur au Lac (luxury lakeside), Widder Hotel (medieval buildings)
- Mid-range: Hotel Altstadt, 25hours Hotel, Hotel Stuckbach
- Budget: Hotel Poltzer, Jazz Hotel, Easy Guest
Best Places to Eat
- Fine dining: Pavus, Restaurant Friedrich, The Table at Kunsthaus
- Traditional: Zeughauskeller (armoury restaurant), Restaurant Kronenhalle (classic)
- Lakeside: Café Pfenninger, Restaurant Neft
- Markets: Flohmattmarkt (Saturday flea market), Bürkliplatz market (Saturday)
Best Sites to Visit
Altstadt (Old Town): Narrow lanes between the Limmat River and Bahnhofstrasse. Walk without a plan — this is a city best experienced slowly.
Lindenhof hill: Roman remains, a park, and the best city views that cost nothing to access.
Grossmünster church: Romanesque church with a tower you can climb for views over the rooftops.
Fraumünster Church: Gothic church famous for Marc Chagall's stained glass windows — extraordinary.
Kunsthaus Zürich: Swiss and international art, beautifully curated, recently expanded. One of Switzerland's best museums.
Bahnhofstrasse: One of the world's most exclusive shopping streets — perfume, watches, jewellery.
Lake Zürich: Take a boat cruise, swim from a lakeside pier (free public access), or walk the promenade from Bürkliplatz east.
Zürichberg hill: Take the Polybahn (funicular) or walk up for panoramic city views and a restaurant at the top.
Chinawiese: A locals' meadow on Zürichberg with excellent city views. Popular for Sunday brunch.
Sample 3-Day Itinerary
Day 1: Old Town
Morning: Hauptbahnhof → walk through the Altstadt to Lindenhof hill → Grossmünster tower climb. Afternoon: Fraumünster Church (Chagall windows), then Kunsthaus Zürich (allow 2 hours). Evening: Niederdorf — the bar street in the old town.
Day 2: Lake and Bahnhofstrasse
Morning: Bahnhofstrasse (shopping, coffee at Sprüngli), walk to Bürkliplatz. Afternoon: Boat cruise on Lake Zürich — either a 1-hour circuit or a half-day to Rapperswil. Evening: Restaurant Neft or Café Pfenninger for lakeside dinner.
Day 3: Zürichberg and Day Trip
Morning: Take the Polybahn to Zürichberg, walk the Chinawiese meadows, great views. Afternoon: Rhine Falls day trip (40 min by train to Schaffhausen — Europe's largest waterfall). Evening: Return to Zurich for dinner at Zeughauskeller.
Getting There and Around
- By air: Zürich Airport (ZRH) — major hub, direct trains to city in 12 min (€6.50).
- By train: Zürich Hauptbahnhof — central transport hub, direct connections across Switzerland and to Munich, Milan, Vienna.
- Getting around: The ZVV tram and S-Bahn network is impeccable. Buy a day pass. The city centre is very walkable.
Travel Tips and Practical Info
- Very expensive: Budget €120–200/day as a backpacker. Everything costs more than you expect.
- Best time: June–August for lake swimming and outdoor life. December for Christmas markets.
- Very safe: Zurich is very safe, very clean, very efficient.
- Free: Swimming in the lake, Lindenhof hill, old town wandering, Zürichberg walks.
- English: Extremely widely spoken — no language barrier here.
Where to Next?
- Lucerne (1h by train — Chapel Bridge, Lake Lucerne)
- Interlaken (2h — gateway to Jungfrau region)
- Basel (1h — art scene, Baselworld, beautiful old town)
- Rhine Falls (40 min by train to Schaffhausen)
- Lugano (2.5h — Italian-speaking Ticino)