City Guide
Seville, Spain
Seville (Sevilla) is the soul of Andalusia — a city of blazing orange-tree courtyards, flamenco that echoes off tiled walls, tapas bars that spill into cobblestone streets, and an architecture that mixes Moorish palace with Catholic cathedral in a way nowhere else on earth manages. It is the city that inspired Carmen, Don Juan, and countless painters. And it is hot — brutally, beautifully hot in summer, which is why the best time to visit is April, May, or October.
Best Places to Stay
- Luxury: Hotel Alfonso XIII (the landmark), Hotel El Palacio de San Telmo, Estandarte
- Mid-range: Hotel Amadeus, H10 Corregidor, AlmaSevilla
- Budget: Camel Home Stay, Oasis Sevilla, Kreuz
Best Places to Eat
- Tapas: El Rinconcillo (the oldest tapas bar in the world, est. 1849), El Gordillo, La Brunilda Tapas
- Fine dining: Abantal, Mariscoco
- Markets: Mercado de Triana (the authentic food market on the west bank of the river)
- Sweet treats: Churros at El Tinte near the Cathedral
Best Sites to Visit
- Alcázar: The Royal Palace — Moorish architecture at its absolute finest. Game of Thrones filming location. Arrive before 9am to avoid queues.
- Cathedral of Seville + Giralda: The largest Gothic cathedral in the world. Climb the Giralda tower (ramp — leftover from the minaret it once was) for the best view in the city.
- Plaza de España: Semi-circular Renaissance building with ceramic tile benches representing each Spanish province. Stunning at sunset.
- Santa Cruz: The old Jewish quarter — narrow lanes, whitewashed walls, orange tree courtyards. Beautiful to wander.
- Triana: Across the river — the authentic working-class neighbourhood famous for ceramics and flamenco.
- Metropol Parasol (Setas de Sevilla): The giant wooden mushroom structure in the Encarnación square. Striking, and best viewed at night.
- Archivo de Indias: Extraordinary building housing documents from the Americas era. Completely free to visit.
Sample 3-Day Itinerary
Day 1: Historic Centre
Morning: Alcázar (arrive at opening, 9am — typically 1–2 hour visit). Afternoon: Cathedral + Giralda tower climb (another 2 hours). Evening: Santa Cruz neighbourhood for dinner — the narrow streets are magical at dusk.
Day 2: City Centre
Morning: Plaza de España (best in morning light), María Luisa Park adjacent. Afternoon: Metropol Parasol rooftop walkway — stunning city panorama. Evening: El Rinconcillo for tapas — book ahead or arrive at 7:30pm sharp.
Day 3: Triana + Flamenco
Morning: Cross the Puente de Isabel II bridge to Triana. Walk the ceramic-lined streets. Visit the Triana market for breakfast. Afternoon: Mercado de Triana for lunch. Evening: Flamenco show — the Casa de la Memoria is the most atmospheric.
Getting There and Around
- By air: Seville Airport (SVQ) — direct flights from most European capitals. Metro connects the airport to city centre in 30 min (Line 1, €1.40).
- By train: Santa Justa station, high-speed AVE from Madrid (2.5 hours) and from Córdoba (45 min).
- Getting around: The historic centre is entirely walkable. Rent a bike — Seville is remarkably flat. Taxi is cheap.
Travel Tips and Practical Info
- Best time to visit: April (Semana Santa is extraordinary but hotels double in price) or May for cooler weather. October is excellent — warm days, smaller crowds.
- Summer: July and August are very hot (40°C+). Sightsee early morning and late afternoon; hide at lunch.
- Free or cheap: Plaza de España, María Luisa Park, Santa Cruz neighbourhood, Triana ceramics walk.
Where to Next?
- Córdoba (45 min by train): The Mezquita — one of the world's most extraordinary buildings.
- Granada (3h by bus): The Alhambra — Moorish palace at its absolute peak.
- Cádiz (1.5h by train): The oldest city in Europe, coastal, completely beautiful.