City Guide
Naples, Italy
Naples (Napoli) is one of Europe's most intense and misunderstood cities — a place of extraordinary layered beauty and genuine chaos. It is the birthplace of pizza, a city where Baroque churches sit next to graffiti, and the bay of Naples with Mount Vesuvius looming over it is one of the world's most dramatic natural settings. Give it time and it will reward you with some of the best food in Italy.
Best Places to Stay
- Luxury: Grand Hotel Vesuvio (overlooking the bay), Hotel Romeo, Royal Continental
- Mid-range: Hotel Piazza Bellini, La Suite, Chiaja Hotel
- Budget: Hostel of the Sun, Napoli Guesthouse, Belle Arti
Best Places to Eat
- Pizza (the original): Da Michele (just Margherita and Marinara — legendary, €3), Sorbillo (lively, many options), Starita (great atmosphere)
- Street food: Cuoppo (fried food in paper cones — calamari, mozzarella in carrozza, baccalà)
- Trattorias: In the Spanish Quarter — authentic, cheap, local
Best Sites to Visit
Naples Archaeological Museum: One of the world's best — Farnese collection, mosaics from Pompeii, extraordinary.
Spaccanapoli: The straight line through the old town — walk it and see churches, shops, chaos, life.
Cappella Sansevero: Extraordinary Baroque chapel with the Veiled Christ sculpture — one of the most moving artworks in Italy.
Naples Cathedral (Duomo): 13th-century Gothic cathedral, beautiful.
Via San Gregorio Armeno: The Christmas street — workshops making nativity figures year-round.
Pompeii: The Roman city buried by Vesuvius in 79AD — extraordinary site, 30 min by train, allow 4-6 hours.
Herculaneum: Smaller and more complete than Pompeii, closer to Naples.
Castel dell'Ovo: Castle on the sea — dramatic location, exterior free.
Posillipo hill: The best views over the bay and Vesuvius.
Sample 3-Day Itinerary
Day 1: Old Town
Morning: Spaccanapoli walk — Cathedral, Sansevero Chapel, Via San Gregorio Armeno. Lunch at Sorbillo. Afternoon: Archaeological Museum (2-3 hours). Evening: Porto area for seafood dinner.
Day 2: Castles and Hills
Morning: Castel dell'Ovo, Galleria Umberto I, Piazza del Plebiscito. Afternoon: Funicular to Posillipo hill for views. Evening: Pizza at Da Michele.
Day 3: Pompeii or Herculaneum
Full day trip to Pompeii (allow 4-6 hours) OR Herculaneum + archaeological site. Return for sunset at the Porto.
Getting There and Around
- By air: Naples International Airport (NAP) — direct from most European cities. Alibus to city centre (45 min, €5).
- By train: Napoli Centrale — major hub. High-speed trains to Rome (1h10), Florence (3h), Milan (4.5h). Circumvesuviana to Pompeii and Sorrento from Porta Nolana station.
- By ferry: Naples port — ferries to Sicily (Palermo, 7-10h), Capri, Ischia, Procida.
- Getting around: Central area is very walkable. Metro is limited but improving.
Travel Tips and Practical Info
- Safe but chaotic: Noisy, energetic, a bit dirty — this is part of its charm. Normal big-city precautions.
- Pickpocketing: Common on crowded trains and around the station.
- Validate train tickets: On the Circumvesuviana — spot checks are common and fines are steep.
- Best time: April–May or October. Summer is hot and busy.
- Free: Spaccanapoli walk, Castel dell'Ovo exterior, Posillipo views.
Where to Next?
- Pompeii (30 min by Circumvesuviana) — essential day trip
- Sorrento (1h — gateway to Amalfi Coast)
- Capri (1h by ferry from Beverello port)
- Rome (1h10 by high-speed train)
- Matera (2.5h — extraordinary ancient cave city)