City Guide

Naples, Italy

Naples (Napoli) is one of Europe's most intense and misunderstood cities — a place of extraordinary layered beauty and genuine chaos. It is the birthplace of pizza, a city where Baroque churches sit next to graffiti, and the bay of Naples with Mount Vesuvius looming over it is one of the world's most dramatic natural settings. Give it time and it will reward you with some of the best food in Italy.


Best Places to Stay

  • Luxury Hotels (5-Star): Grand Hotel Vesuvio (historic luxury hotel overlooking the Bay of Naples since 1880, magnificent views of Vesuvius and the harbor, exceptional service and spa), Hotel Romeo (modern luxury hotel in restored 19th-century building with stunning rooftop pool and Michelin-starred restaurant), Royal Continental Hotel (luxury hotel directly on the seafront with panoramic bay views and excellent facilities), Hotel Piazza Bellini (charming luxury boutique hotel in historic center with lovely courtyard and exceptional service), Romeo Hotel Napoli (already mentioned but worth highlighting for its incredible design and views), Vesuvio Hotel (luxury hotel with beautiful Beaux-Arts architecture and superb location near Teatro di San Carlo), Palazzo Caracciolo Napoli - MGallery (luxury hotel in 15th-century palace with incredible historic features and lovely rooftop terrace), Santa Chiara Boutique Hotel (luxury boutique hotel near the magnificent Santa Chiara complex with lovely garden), Excelsior Hotel Naples (luxury hotel on the seafront with beautiful Art Nouveau facade and excellent service), Britannique Hotel Naples (luxury hotel with stunning views of the bay and Vesuvius from its terraces)
  • Boutique & Character Hotels (4-Star): La Suite Hotel (charming boutique hotel on exclusive Via Caracciolo with lovely terrace and excellent service), Chiaja Hotel (lovely boutique hotel in elegant Chiaia district with lovely courtyard and helpful staff), Palazzo di Demidoff (luxury boutique hotel in historic palazzo with magnificent frescoes and lovely terrace), Hotel Piazza Bellini (already mentioned but essential for its central location and charming atmosphere), Napoli Boutique Hotel (lovely boutique hotel near Spaccanapoli with lovely rooftop bar and excellent location), Decumani Hotel & Spa (wedged between the ancient Greek and Roman streets with lovely spa and excellent location), Palazzo Manfredi Boutique Hotel (lovely hotel near the sea with historic charm and excellent facilities), Hotel Gibellino (lovely family-run boutique hotel with excellent location near the port), Albergo Palazzo Miranda (lovely hotel in historic building with lovely courtyard and excellent service), La Maison Chenal (lovely boutique hotel with excellent location near the historic center)
  • Well-Located Mid-Range (3-4 Star): Hotel Palazzo Caracciolo Napoli (lovely hotel in historic building near Teatro di San Carlo with excellent facilities and lovely courtyard), Hilton Naples (modern hotel near central station with excellent facilities and lovely rooftop pool), Continental Hotel Naples (lovely hotel on the seafront with excellent service and lovely views), Best Western Plus Hotel Plaza Napoli (lovely hotel near Piazza del Plebiscito with excellent facilities and lovely rooftop terrace), Holiday Inn Naples (lovely hotel near central station with excellent facilities and lovely fitness center), NH Collection Napoli Piazza Bellini (lovely hotel near historic center with excellent facilities and lovely rooftop bar), Hotel Santa Chiara (lovely hotel near the magnificent Santa Chiara complex with excellent location and helpful staff), Hotel Piazza Garibaldi (lovely hotel near central station with excellent facilities and easy airport access), Hotel Intercontinental Naples (luxury hotel with stunning bay views and excellent service, worth the splurge), Palazzo Alabardieri (lovely boutique hotel in elegant Chiaia with lovely garden and excellent breakfast)
  • Budget-Friendly (Hostels/Guesthouses): Hostel of the Sun (lovely hostel with fantastic rooftop terrace, bar, and organized city walks), Napoli Guesthouse (lovely guesthouse near central station with clean rooms and helpful staff), Belle Arti (lovely budget hotel in historic center with lovely atmosphere and excellent location), Ostello Bello Napoli (lovely hostel with fantastic social atmosphere, lovely bar, and organized activities), Casa MIgliore Budget Hotel (lovely budget option near central station with clean rooms and friendly staff), Dante Hostel Napoli (lovely hostel near university with excellent facilities and lovely common room), Heart Hostel Napoli (trendy hostel with lovely common room and organized events), Convento Monterone Guesthouse (lovely guesthouse in converted convent with lovely atmosphere and helpful staff), B&B Piazza del Plebiscito (lovely bed and breakfast right on the magnificent square with excellent hospitality), Dimora Palacetta (lovely guesthouse in historic building with lovely courtyard and excellent location)

Best Places to Eat

  • Pizza (the Original & Best): Da Michele (legendary since 1870, just Margherita and Marinara — incredibly busy but worth the wait, €3.50), Sorbillo (multiple locations, lively atmosphere, many options including gluten-free and creative toppings), Starita (historic pizzeria since 1901, great atmosphere and famous for fried pizza), Di Matteo (legendary since 1936 near Via Tribunali, incredible Margherita and Marinara), Lombardi 1892 (claims to be Naples' first pizzeria, lovely historic setting), Francesco e Salvatore Salvo (excellent pizzeria near Via Caracciolo with lovely outdoor seating), Pizzeria Tribunali (lovely spot on Via dei Tribunali with incredible traditional pizza), Pizzeria Starita a Materdei (historic pizzeria with incredible atmosphere and fantastic fried pizza), Pizzeria da Attilio (lovely pizzeria near Porta Nolana with excellent traditional options), Pizzeria Francesca (lovely family-run spot with incredible pizza and lovely atmosphere)
  • Street Food & Fried Delights: Cuoppo (mixed fried food in paper cones — calamari, shrimp, mozzarella in carrozza, zucchini flowers, fantastic for walking around), Pizza Fritta (fried pizza dough, often filled with ricotta and salami or just plain delicious), Arancini (fried rice balls, classic Sicilian but beloved in Naples, especially with ragù or mozzarella), Panuozzo (wood-fired sandwich from Gragnano, stuffed with various delicious fillings), Mozzarella in Carozza (fried mozzarella sandwich, incredible when hot and melty), Frittatina di Pasta (fried pasta snack, beloved bar food), Zeppole (fried dough balls, especially amazing with honey or custard), Scammaro (traditional Lenten dish of fried pasta with anchovies and capers, surprisingly delicious), Frittata di Maccheroni (fried macaroni cake, incredible street food snack)
  • Traditional Trattorias & Osterias: Trattoria da Nennella (legendary in the Spanish Quarter since 1930, incredible atmosphere and amazing traditional Neapolitan dishes), Osteria da Carmnella (lovely spot near Piazza Mercato with incredible seafood and traditional dishes), Trattoria alla Via Toledo (lovely spot on the lively Via Toledo with excellent traditional fare), Trattoria da Gino al Vicoletto (lovely tiny spot near Piazza Bellini with incredible homemade pasta), Trattoria da Peppino (legendary spot near the port with incredible seafood and wonderful atmosphere), Osteria il Gobbetto (lovely spot near Spaccanapoli with incredible traditional dishes and lovely garden), Trattoria da Sofia (lovely family-run spot with incredible traditional dishes and excellent wine list), Trattoria da Ciccio (lovely spot in Vomero with incredible traditional Neapolitan fare), Trattoria da Nennella (already mentioned but worth returning to for its incredible energy and food)
  • Seafood Specialists: Ristorante 'O Scialatiello (lovely spot near the port with incredible fresh seafood and lovely waterfront views), Trattoria da Gino al Vicoletto (already mentioned but excellent for seafood pasta), Ristorante Palazzo Petrucci (Michelin-starred seafood restaurant in historic palazzo with incredible tasting menus), Antica Osteria da Agnone (lovely spot near the historic center with incredible traditional Neapolitan seafood), Ristorante La Taverna dell'Orologio (lovely spot near Piazza del Plebiscito with incredible seafood and lovely setting), Ristorante Umberto (lovely spot near Via Chiaia with incredible seafood and lovely terrace), Trattoria da Nennella (legendary but worth noting for its incredible seafood preparations), Ristorante Antica Campania (lovely spot with incredible traditional Campanian cuisine and lovely atmosphere), Ristorante Il Faro di Capo Posillipo (lovely spot on Posillipo hill with incredible views and excellent seafood)
  • Sweets, Pastries & Desserts: Sfogliatella (iconic Neapolitan pastry, riccia (curly) or frolla (smooth), try both!, legendary at Sfogliatella Mary or Attanasio), Babà (rum-soaked yeast cake, incredible at Pasticceria Bellavia or Pastry Shop Stanislao Cannoli), Pastiera (Easter wheat pie with ricotta and orange blossom, amazing year-round at legendary pastry shops), Zeppole (fried dough balls, especially amazing for San Giuseppe day with custard or honey), Struffoli (honey balls, incredible Christmas treat but lovely year-round), Rococò (anise-flavored ring cake, lovely with coffee or cappuccino), Cannoli (Sicilian but beloved in Naples, incredible filling with ricotta and chocolate or candied fruit), Gelato (try artisanal gelaterias like Gelateria Soave or Mennella for incredible flavors like fior di latte, nocciola, or limone), Pastiera Napoletana (already mentioned but worth highlighting for its incredible flavor), Pastiera (legendary Neapolitan wheat pie with incredible ricotta and citrus)
  • Coffee & Cafés: Caffè Mexico (historic café since 1920 near Piazza del Plebiscito, incredible espresso and lovely pastries), Caffè Gambrinus (legendary café since 1860 near Teatro di San Carlo, incredible history and lovely atmosphere), Gran Caffè La Caffettiera (lovely spot near Via Toledo with excellent coffee and lovely pastries), Bar Mexico (already mentioned but worth returning to for its incredible espresso and lovely atmosphere), Caffè Teatro (lovely spot near Teatro di San Carlo with excellent coffee and lovely pastries), Pasticceria Attanasio (legendary pastry shop since 1930 with incredible sfogliatella and lovely atmosphere), Pasticceria Stanislao Cannoli (lovely pastry shop with incredible babà and lovely location near the port), Bar Excelsior (lovely spot near the seafront with excellent coffee and lovely views of the bay), Caffè Rattè (lovely spot near Spaccanapoli with excellent coffee and lovely pastries), Pasticceria Schiattarella (lovely pastry shop with incredible pastries and lovely location near the historic center)

Best Sites to Visit

Naples Archaeological Museum (Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli): One of the world's greatest archaeological museums, housing the incredible Farnese Collection of classical sculptures, magnificent mosaics from Pompeii and Herculaneum, the stunning Blue Vase from Pompeii, and extraordinary Egyptian antiquities. The Secret Cabinet (Gabinetto Segreto) contains fascinating erotic art from Pompeii that was locked away for centuries. Allow at least 3-4 hours to explore this magnificent collection properly.

Spaccanapoli: The famous "Naples splitter" — this straight, narrow street cuts through the heart of the historic center. Walking Spaccanapoli is like traveling through time: you'll encounter gorgeous Baroque churches like Gesù Nuovo and Santa Chiara, lively markets, incredible street food vendors, ancient Greek ruins visible in basements, and the vibrant, chaotic energy that makes Naples unique. Don't miss the incredible nativity scene workshops on Via San Gregorio Armeno, especially magical during the Christmas season but fascinating year-round.

Cappella Sansevero: This extraordinary 18th-century Baroque chapel houses some of the most remarkable sculptures in Italy. The Veiled Christ (Cristo Velato) by Giuseppe Sanmartino is breathtaking — a marble sculpture so delicately carved that it appears to be covered by a translucent veil. The chapel also contains incredible anatomical models (the "Anatomical Machines") and other stunning works by Francesco Queirolo and Antonio Corradini. The chapel's history involves alchemy, freemasonry, and fascinating stories of Raimondo di Sangro, the Prince of Sansevero.

Naples Cathedral (Duomo di Napoli): Dedicated to Januarius, the city's patron saint, this magnificent cathedral combines multiple architectural styles. The 13th-century Gothic structure houses the incredible Royal Chapel of the Treasure of San Gennaro, which holds precious jewels and silver offerings. Don't miss the chance to witness (if you're lucky) the miraculous liquefaction of San Gennaro's blood, which occurs three times a year (May, September, and December). The crypt contains fascinating paleo-Christian mosaics and the remains of early bishops.

Via San Gregorio Armeno: Known as "Christmas Street," this lovely narrow street is famous year-round for its incredible artisan workshops creating nativity scene figures (pastori) and elaborate presepi. Artisans work in open studios, painting terracotta figures, dressing them in exquisite fabrics, and creating incredible detailed scenes that range from traditional biblical narratives to contemporary Neapolitan life with pizza makers, football players, and local celebrities. The street is magical during the holiday season but fascinating any time of year.

Pompeii: The legendary Roman city buried by the catastrophic eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD is one of the world's most incredible archaeological sites. Walking the remarkably preserved streets feels like stepping back in time: you'll see magnificent houses with incredible frescoes (like the Villa of the Mysteries), public baths, temples, bakeries with loaves of bread still in the ovens, shops, theaters, and even haunting plaster casts of victims caught in the eruption. Allow a full day (4-6 hours minimum) to explore properly — consider hiring a guide or using an excellent audio guide to understand the incredible stories behind what you're seeing.

Herculaneum (Ercolano): Often overlooked in favor of its more famous neighbor, Herculaneum is actually in many ways more remarkable. Buried by the same Vesuvian eruption but preserved differently (by a pyroclastic surge rather than ash fall), Herculaneum offers incredible multi-story buildings with preserved wooden elements, incredible mosaics and frescoes, and a more intimate feel. The Villa of the Papyri is particularly fascinating — believed to have housed an incredible library of philosophical works that may one day be deciphered. Allow 2-3 hours to explore this incredible site properly.

Castel dell'Ovo: The "Egg Castle" sits dramatically on the islet of Megaride in the Bay of Naples. According to legend, the Roman poet Virgil placed a magical egg in the foundations to support the fortress — if the egg ever broke, the castle would fall and Naples would suffer disaster. The castle offers incredible views of the bay and Mount Vesuvius, lovely halls to explore, and frequently hosts art exhibitions and cultural events. The exterior is freely accessible and makes for a lovely walk, especially at sunset.

Castel Nuovo (Maschio Angioino): This impressive medieval castle dominates the Naples waterfront with its striking triumphal arch. Built by Charles I of Anjou in the 13th century, it features incredible halls like the Sala dei Baroni where a notorious massacre occurred, lovely Palatine Chapel with stunning frescoes, and incredible civic museum. The castle offers magnificent views of the harbor and has played a central role in Naples' often tumultuous history. Don't miss the incredible underground passages and the lovely Avignon-style architecture.

Royal Palace of Naples (Palazzo Reale): This magnificent palace faces the splendid Piazza del Plebiscito and served as residence for Bourbon kings during the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies. The incredible Royal Apartments showcase stunning furnishings, incredible tapestries, and lovely views of the piazza. The palace contains the magnificent National Library with incredible historic manuscripts, lovely court theater, and incredible Hall of Hercules with stunning ceiling frescoes. Allow 2-3 hours to explore the incredible state rooms and lovely gardens.

Underground Naples (Napoli Sotterranea): One of the city's most fascinating experiences — exploring the incredible underground world beneath Naples. You'll see incredible Greek-Roman aqueducts, fascinating WWII air raid shelters that housed thousands of Neapolitans during bombing campaigns, incredible ancient Greek quarries (where the yellow tufa stone was extracted), and incredible remnants of the ancient Greco-Roman city. The tour includes incredible tunnels, lovely cisterns, and fascinating stories about how Neapolitans have used this underground world for over 2,400 years. Allow 2 hours for this incredible experience.

Catacombs of San Gennaro: This incredible paleo-Christian burial site dates back to the 2nd century AD and contains fascinating frescoes, incredible mosaics, and lovely underground passages. The catacombs are divided into two levels: the lower Crypt of San Gennaro (where the patron saint's remains were originally buried) and the upper Basilica di San Gennaro Extra Moenia with incredible Lombard-era frescoes. The site offers incredible insight into early Christian burial practices and the fascinating history of Naples' patron saint.

Certosa e Museo di San Martino: This magnificent former Carthusian monastery sits atop Vomero hill with incredible views over Naples and the bay. The incredible monastery complex includes a lovely church with stunning Baroque decorations, incredible cloisters, lovely gardens, and the incredible National Museum of San Martino which houses fascinating exhibits on Naples' history, incredible nautical collection, lovely presepi (nativity scenes), and stunning views from its terraces. Allow 2-3 hours to explore this incredible complex properly.

Galleria Umberto I: This magnificent 19th-century shopping gallery is a breathtaking feat of iron and glass architecture. Built in the late 1800s, it features an incredible dome, lovely mosaic floors, incredible Art Nouveau details, and lovely cafés and shops. The galleria connects Via Toledo, Piazza del Plebiscito, and Via San Carlo, making it a lovely place to pause for coffee or gelato while admiring the incredible architecture. It's particularly beautiful when illuminated at night.

Teatro di San Carlo: Europe's oldest continuously operating opera house (opened in 1737, predating La Scala by 41 years) is an absolute jewel. The incredible horseshoe-shaped auditorium features stunning gilt decorations, lovely velvet seating, incredible acoustics, and a magnificent royal box. The theater has hosted legendary performances by incredible artists like Maria Callas, Luciano Pavarotti, and Enrico Caruso. Even if you don't catch a performance, the incredible guided tours are well worth it to see the magnificent backstage areas, incredible stage machinery, and lovely history.

Virgilian Park (Parco Virgiliano): Located on the beautiful Posillipo hill, this lovely park offers incredible panoramic views over the Bay of Naples, Pozzuoli, and the incredible volcanic landscape. Named after the legendary Roman poet Virgil (who according to myth is buried nearby), the park features lovely walking trails, incredible vistas, lovely pine groves, and lovely picnic spots. It's particularly beautiful at sunset when you can see the incredible colors over the water and the magnificent silhouette of Mount Vesuvius.

Floridiana Villa (Villa Floridiana): This lovely former royal residence on Vomero hill houses the incredible Duke of Martina Museum with fabulous collections of decorative arts, lovely porcelain, incredible enamels, and lovely antique furniture. The incredible park surrounding the villa offers lovely walking trails, gorgeous views over the bay, lovely Mediterranean vegetation, and lovely picnic spots. The villa was a favorite residence of Queen Maria Christina of Savoy and offers incredible insight into royal life in Naples during the 19th century.

Cathedral of San Gennaro (Duomo di Napoli): Already mentioned above but worth repeating for its incredible significance to Neapolitans. The incredible miracle of the liquefaction of San Gennaro's blood happens three times a year: the first Saturday in May (to commemorate the saint's ashes being moved to Naples), September 19th (his feast day), and December 16th (to commemorate his patronage preventing Vesuvius eruption). The incredible chapel contains stunning silver reliquaries, lovely frescoes, and the incredible altar where the miracle occurs.