City Guide
Athens, Greece
Athens invented democracy, philosophy, and Western civilization — and then spent centuries living off that credit. But the city has changed dramatically in the past decade. The historic centre has been pedestrianised, street art covers entire building facades, rooftop bars serve cocktails above the Acropolis at sunset, and the food scene has become one of the best in Europe. Ancient history and modern energy exist side by side here in a way that few cities manage.
Best Places to Stay
- Luxury: Hotel Grand Bretagne (landmark, overlooking Syntagma Square), AthensWas, New Hotel
- Mid-range: Morgan's, The Editor's House, Elia Ermou Athens Hotel
- Budget: Athens Backpackers (Plaka location, great rooftop), Bedbox, City Circus
Best Places to Eat
- Modern Greek: CTC (Chef's Table), Lykavittos, Botanilis
- Traditional: To Kafeneon, O Kostas (no-frills gyro near Monastiraki), Diporto Agoras
- Markets: Varvakeios Agora (central market), Madosini Market
- Plaka: Manitis or Ta Karamanlidika for atmospheric tavernas
Best Sites to Visit
- The Acropolis + Parthenon: Arrive at 8am to beat the tour groups. Book tickets online (€20 standard / €10 reduced).
- Acropolis Museum: One of the world's best modern museums. Floor-to-ceiling glass with views of the Parthenon above. Allow 2 hours.
- Ancient Agora: Where Socrates taught. Far fewer crowds than the Acropolis, free with the combined ticket.
- Plaka: The old neighbourhood beneath the Acropolis — cobblestone lanes, Byzantine churches, lovely squares.
- Monastiraki: Eclectic neighbourhood with a flea market (Sundays are best), excellent cheap food.
- Mount Lycabettus: Funicular or hike to the top at dusk. The view over the illuminated Parthenon is one of Europe's great scenes.
- National Archaeological Museum: The Antikythera Mechanism and the golden Mask of Agamemnon live here.
- Temple of Olympian Zeus: The massive fallen columns are dramatic at any hour.
Sample 3-Day Itinerary
Day 1: Ancient Athens
Morning: Acropolis (arrive at 8am, allow 2.5 hours). Afternoon: Acropolis Museum (directly below). Evening: Plaka neighbourhood for dinner — taverna tables on cobblestones under fairy lights.
Day 2: Modern Athens
Morning: Ancient Agora + Monastiraki (do the flea market if it's Sunday). Afternoon: Syntagma Square, Ermou Street shopping, National Gardens. Evening: Mount Lycabettus for sunset, then dinner in Kolonaki.
Day 3: Day Trip or Deeper Exploration
Option A: Day trip to Cape Sounion (Temple of Poseidon) — 70km from Athens, dramatic clifftop ruins at the Aegean's edge. Option B: National Archaeological Museum (allow half a day). Evening: Rooftop bar — A for Athens or Galaxy Bar for views over the illuminated Parthenon.
Getting There and Around
- By air: Athens International Airport (AIA) — direct from most European cities. Metro Line 3 connects to the city centre in 40 min.
- By ferry: Piraeus port is 30 min from city centre. Ferries to Greek islands (Santorini, Mykonos, Crete) depart daily.
- Getting around: Athens Metro is excellent and cheap. Walking in the historic centre is easy — everything is close. Taxis are cheap.
Travel Tips and Practical Info
- Best time to visit: April–May or October. The Acropolis in July–August is brutal in every sense — heat and crowds.
- Acropolis tickets: Book online at least 2 days in advance. The €30 combined ticket (Acropolis + 6 other sites) is excellent value.
- Free: The National Garden, Syntagma Square, Anafiotika (whitewashed village on the slopes of the Acropolis).
- Beaches: Take the tram to Glyfada or Vouliagmeni for city beaches.
Where to Next?
- Santorini (5h ferry or 45 min flight): Whitewashed villages, blue domes, caldera sunsets
- Nafplio (2h by bus): First capital of modern Greece — Venetian fortress, romantic old town
- Delphi (3h by bus): Ancient sanctuary of the Pythian oracle, dramatic mountain setting
- Crete (1h flight): Minoan ruins, mountain villages, south coast beaches